Malaysia...

...is absolutely incredible. We arrived here via ferry boat from Satun Thailand to the island of Longkawi, off the northwest tip of Malaysia. The trip from Thailand to Malaysia proved to be a salute to the endurance one must at times muster whilst traveling about.

We began on Ko Samui at around 11:30am. We walked about two or three miles to catch what we learned was called the Seatran Express, which is a package deal. It involved getting on a very nice, air-condtioned, and empty bus. By far the most comfortable means of travel we had taken thus far. The bus brought us to the ferry terminal and much to our surprise, the bus boarded the ferry with us. The same bus, after docking with us at the pier, brought us to the town of Surat Thani. One thing about piers, train stations, bus terminals, and airports is that they are literally crawling with hundreds of taxi drivers trying to sell a fair. Quite a hectic scene at those places. Most of the time, it is best to walk quickly and reply by saying "We are going our own way", though this really doesn't help all that much. From the pier we had to find the train station that would take us to Butterworth station in Penang, Malaysia. We learned that the train station was about an hour drive out of town and we would need to catch a bus. Upon arriving at the train station, we also found out that the one train that departs from Surat Thani to Penang leaves at 1:36am and would cost us 950baht. Which is way more than we wanted, or anticipated on paying. So we devised a plan to catch a 12:15am train (the trains in Thailand, by the way, are always at least a half hour late) that would take us to a town called Hat Yai, then with only hope to support us, be able to catch a bus to Satun, and then catch a ferry to Langkawi instead of going further south into Penang. We finally made it to Langkawi after at least 36 straight hours of travelling. It is part a practice in insomnia, part a test of patience and will, but mostly a lesson in giving up on any preconceived notion that you are in control of any kind what so ever while being in a foreign place, running on a foreign concept of time. And by this time, I was one day late on departing Thailand according to the date stamped on my visa.

But Langkawi is magnificent. It is a paradise that feels very much still kept in secret. The people everywhere smile as large as the moon, wave, and say hello every time they see you. The beach is amazing. Coupled by the ocean that feels of the most soothing bath water, and the sand that is white, soft, and warm as a heating pad. Then topped with the sunsets and the crowd of locals and visitors who claim residency on the beach well into the early hours of the morning. Brent and I have been playing music with our new friends who play nightly at the bars that line the beach endlessly. And we have even gotten paid doing it. We have been offered to pay month to month (the visa in Malaysia is valid for 90 days, and being so close to the border serves no problem for the ever popular visa run) rent for $50, we have been offered jobs, and we have met and made some very endearing people. Though the future is always unknown, it is very possible that we stay here for quite some time. One example of a friend we met is a guy named A.C. He is, for lack of a better word, a pirate. He gets paid well to be on boats and has offered to get us jobs on the boat. This boat makes trips to South Africa quite regularly and A.C. is quite a character who I get along well with because we have an undying love for Slayer. A pirate in the sense that he gets extremely drunk, has long hair that is constantly in a bandana, and is missing quite a few number of teeth. But a real swell fellow. Anyways, not that Thailand was bad, but I truly believe that if I could do it all over again, I would have started with Malaysia.

The Malay language is easy compared to Thai. The large influence of Indian culture proves to not only flourish the land with genuine, kind hearted people, but also the best Indian food I have experienced. Ever. And the island of Langkawi is everything that Thailand is in art, culture, and beauty. But minus the hustle and flow of people trying to con others into spending money. It is truly beautiful.

wish you all good things
Nate

the islands...

...are truly beautiful. We arrived in Koh Tao at about 5:00am on Tuesday the 4th of November. Election day to those in the U.S. Which, by the way, was not just a party in the States. After Obama took California, everyone in the crowded cafe I was watching the BBC news at started yelling and hugging and kissing. After the commotion somewhat passed, I found out that I was the only American in the cafe. It was the first time in my entire life that I actually felt proud to be a United States citizen. Anyways...Koh Tao. We took a midnight ferry from the city of Chumphon after riding in C class on a train from Bangkok. It was about a nine hour train ride and the man sitting next to me was coming off of some narcotic. He was in and out of sleep and drooling for most of the ride. Needless to say, it made my ride a bit long and gross. But hey, that's what I get for travelling for that inexpensive.

We met the first fellow American since being here on the midnight ferry over. His name is Adam and he just graduated with a degree in water hydraulics from Missoula University in Montana. We all stayed together to cut costs for the week we were all on Koh Tao, and it turned out that Adam was very much similar to us on many different levels. I hadn't noticed the difficulty of buzzing around in a foreign place until I met someone who completely understood everything I was trying to communicate. The sarcasm and body language of the culture I came up through. It was relieving but it also reminded me of how much more effort could be put in to truly try and envelop myself with the country I am in for the time being.

After a nap, we headed to the beach. I have never been as close to the equator in my entire life. And the sunburn I got to show for it was pretty gnarly. It was very prevalent, how painful the burn was, when we walked the entire distance of the island from the west coast to the east coast in hopes of finding a beach sans drunk travellers trying to get laid dancing to Ice, Ice, Baby. That is no joke. The beach parties are like walking into a badly put together frat party. Lot's and lot's of soon to be swimming in the risk of s.t.d.'s and baby having kids getting really, really loaded. If I were twenty-one, I'm sure that I would have joined them and had a blast. But I am not, so I didn't stick around for very long at any of them. Though some of those British and Australian accents and the pleads of "come on, let me buy you a drink" were tempting.

The eastern side of Koh Tao was like our own private resort. The beach was amazing and not that crowded. We went to a restaurant bar run by a Thai woman who insisted we call her Mama. She was wild, in every sense of the word. She insisted that we all put on cowboy hats, get behind the bar, and prepare drinks for ourselves of our choice. She also had the four of us get dressed up in wigs and costumes so she could do photo shoots of us. Full out poses. She told us about her life, we told her about ours. We all hugged and kissed goodbye after being together for just a few hours and felt all around that solid relationships were formed. She didn't charge us for the drinks. And her two dogs followed us back to our bungalow to stay the night. That...was an experience of the likes that I am searching for. Much like being with the family at the farm. Which I will write about later. The experience of getting to know people behind the tourism facade. It get's easier and easier everyday to find the true experiences, and to steer clear of the ones that are designed for tourism. All it takes is humbling myself a bit. Not being afraid of being laughed at, or being silly (even though when the laughter comes, it is from an endearing heart, not one that is actually making fun of you). Attempting to speak the language while fumbling through it. You would not believe the smiles on the faces of people when you speak a little Thai to them. It is so heart warming and they instantly look at you with a different set of eyes, opening their hearts just a little more. And how often I am told I speak Thai well, and am more encouraged to do so, is astounding. Even if slightly exaggerated on the part of who is saying it.

It is monsoon season here. Which means that there are not too many travellers around. Which is nice because it clears the air and the streets. We are now on the island Ko Samui. The boat ride here was like being on an amusement ride for two straight hours due to riding the waves of a storm. Lot's of throwing up was going on. I just got done getting a massage on the beach, listening the pulse and heart of the Gulf of Thailand. It was exuberant. On Friday, we are heading to Surat Thani to catch a train that will take us to Malaysia because our visas are about up.

Thailand has been truly amazing. I have been writing in my journals daily so that I can reflect, with details, at later points in my life. I cannot see myself not coming back here at some point in the future. It seems that this culture has hurdled an obstacle that is so incredibly daunting in western culture. The obstacle of being simple, satisfied, and happy. Living in very tight spaces. Hustling everyday (though not competitively) with family run business's, which is 98% of the time run out of the same building that the entire family, and sons and daughters and cousins families, share together as a home. And still being able to smile true, eye twinkling, and full of pure heart smiles. It is a blessing to be able to witness and humbly attempt to be a part of this place.

Hope that all is well.
with love

almost...

...done with Bangkok. After being in this city for about half a month I have learned a few things. As I have said, this is a crazy city with lot's to do. Most of it does not interest me. We are staying one more night pretty much in chinatown which is seedy, congested, and too claustrophobic. I guess that even in foreign countries I am not interested in consumerism. But what is sad is that the people in Bangkok are very, very poor so they survive off people buying things. One of the biggest differences is that you do not need to search for anything. If you are on the sidewalk you are constantly berated by taxi drivers, people selling food, people selling suits, jewelry, etc., etc. It is very difficult to keep a smile on my face while constantly having to say no, no, no. And with some hostility because people do not let up very easily. But if you do find yourself in chinatown in Bangkok, go to Texas Suki and get a Suyaka vegetable platter. It is a gigantic plate of vegetables (really effing good ones) that you put into a pot of boiling water that they bring to your table. With different types of soup bases that they give in little bowls so you can change it up every time you dig in. For sides you can get tofu, meats, or pretty much anything else. 129BHT split between three people and you are eating a lot of food for under $2. It is right off of Yaowarat road which is one of the main roads leading into chinatown and was worth the hassle of getting there. Our room tonight is shady as shit and there have probably been dead people in there. But it is only for one night because we have train tickets heading south to the beaches on the islands Koh Tao, Ko Phangan, and Ko Samui. We are leaving Bangkok at 1:00pm tomorrow. And I cannot be more stoked.

Bangkok is not for the light hearted. There is a lot of depressing shit here. Koh San road for example which is the biggest attraction for back packers (the street that Leo drinks the cobra venom on in the beach). Here, you can get anything you want. And I do mean anything. I have not been touched more by people I do not know in my entire life. Not only on this road do you get hassled, but you get hassled for ping pong shows(if you don't know, look it up), drugs, fake passports, hookers, etc., etc. And people just flock there. It is a freak show. Which is cool for a second, but it's so crowded that you're stuck there for about an hour once you step into it. It's almost like you have to fake ignorance and pretend not to notice sometimes.

We went and saw Wat Pho which hosts the reclining Buddha. Which is rad. Totally fucking cool. But awesome artifacts and sculptures from centuries back lose some sacredness when it's a main attraction. I stepped in a pile of dog shit which gave us all a laugh.

I have been reffered to as David Beckham many times and have posed for many pictures. It's pretty funny and does not chase any ladies away. My tattoos are touched...a lot.

If you come to Bangkok, which although I have been complaining about is a cool city. Go to the Thewet district which is near the Dusit Zoo. Go to the end of the street Sri Ayuthaya, (some one just touched my arm, then grabbed it...I am not kidding) and either go to The Shanti Lodge and talk to Yuwin or go to the Suwatdee Guesthouse and talk to Sam. That area of Bangkok is amazing. The people, the atmosphere...all of it. Don't even give tuk-tuk drivers the time of day because they are liars and assholes. And eat some food at The Shanti because it's amazing. That alone is worth a trip to Thailand. If you're up for it, talk to Youwin about the farm and she will tell you how to get there. I will write about the farm later. But it was amazing. Just know that when she tells you the accomodations are rugged, she is not kidding at all. Get some fresh fruit smoothies or coffee from Sooya across the street from the guesthouse (she is one of my many girlfriends in Bangkok...muahahahaha). And roam around the city.

It may be a while before I get to write again but just know that the farm is to come. Oh yeah, and so are the mothereffing beaches. word.
love and all that good stuff.