the islands...

...are truly beautiful. We arrived in Koh Tao at about 5:00am on Tuesday the 4th of November. Election day to those in the U.S. Which, by the way, was not just a party in the States. After Obama took California, everyone in the crowded cafe I was watching the BBC news at started yelling and hugging and kissing. After the commotion somewhat passed, I found out that I was the only American in the cafe. It was the first time in my entire life that I actually felt proud to be a United States citizen. Anyways...Koh Tao. We took a midnight ferry from the city of Chumphon after riding in C class on a train from Bangkok. It was about a nine hour train ride and the man sitting next to me was coming off of some narcotic. He was in and out of sleep and drooling for most of the ride. Needless to say, it made my ride a bit long and gross. But hey, that's what I get for travelling for that inexpensive.

We met the first fellow American since being here on the midnight ferry over. His name is Adam and he just graduated with a degree in water hydraulics from Missoula University in Montana. We all stayed together to cut costs for the week we were all on Koh Tao, and it turned out that Adam was very much similar to us on many different levels. I hadn't noticed the difficulty of buzzing around in a foreign place until I met someone who completely understood everything I was trying to communicate. The sarcasm and body language of the culture I came up through. It was relieving but it also reminded me of how much more effort could be put in to truly try and envelop myself with the country I am in for the time being.

After a nap, we headed to the beach. I have never been as close to the equator in my entire life. And the sunburn I got to show for it was pretty gnarly. It was very prevalent, how painful the burn was, when we walked the entire distance of the island from the west coast to the east coast in hopes of finding a beach sans drunk travellers trying to get laid dancing to Ice, Ice, Baby. That is no joke. The beach parties are like walking into a badly put together frat party. Lot's and lot's of soon to be swimming in the risk of s.t.d.'s and baby having kids getting really, really loaded. If I were twenty-one, I'm sure that I would have joined them and had a blast. But I am not, so I didn't stick around for very long at any of them. Though some of those British and Australian accents and the pleads of "come on, let me buy you a drink" were tempting.

The eastern side of Koh Tao was like our own private resort. The beach was amazing and not that crowded. We went to a restaurant bar run by a Thai woman who insisted we call her Mama. She was wild, in every sense of the word. She insisted that we all put on cowboy hats, get behind the bar, and prepare drinks for ourselves of our choice. She also had the four of us get dressed up in wigs and costumes so she could do photo shoots of us. Full out poses. She told us about her life, we told her about ours. We all hugged and kissed goodbye after being together for just a few hours and felt all around that solid relationships were formed. She didn't charge us for the drinks. And her two dogs followed us back to our bungalow to stay the night. That...was an experience of the likes that I am searching for. Much like being with the family at the farm. Which I will write about later. The experience of getting to know people behind the tourism facade. It get's easier and easier everyday to find the true experiences, and to steer clear of the ones that are designed for tourism. All it takes is humbling myself a bit. Not being afraid of being laughed at, or being silly (even though when the laughter comes, it is from an endearing heart, not one that is actually making fun of you). Attempting to speak the language while fumbling through it. You would not believe the smiles on the faces of people when you speak a little Thai to them. It is so heart warming and they instantly look at you with a different set of eyes, opening their hearts just a little more. And how often I am told I speak Thai well, and am more encouraged to do so, is astounding. Even if slightly exaggerated on the part of who is saying it.

It is monsoon season here. Which means that there are not too many travellers around. Which is nice because it clears the air and the streets. We are now on the island Ko Samui. The boat ride here was like being on an amusement ride for two straight hours due to riding the waves of a storm. Lot's of throwing up was going on. I just got done getting a massage on the beach, listening the pulse and heart of the Gulf of Thailand. It was exuberant. On Friday, we are heading to Surat Thani to catch a train that will take us to Malaysia because our visas are about up.

Thailand has been truly amazing. I have been writing in my journals daily so that I can reflect, with details, at later points in my life. I cannot see myself not coming back here at some point in the future. It seems that this culture has hurdled an obstacle that is so incredibly daunting in western culture. The obstacle of being simple, satisfied, and happy. Living in very tight spaces. Hustling everyday (though not competitively) with family run business's, which is 98% of the time run out of the same building that the entire family, and sons and daughters and cousins families, share together as a home. And still being able to smile true, eye twinkling, and full of pure heart smiles. It is a blessing to be able to witness and humbly attempt to be a part of this place.

Hope that all is well.
with love